Sanur: Manta Rays, Noodles, and Traffic

I had absolutely no idea what to expect from Sanur. I had heard of the place, of course, but I had never really thought of it as a must-visit destination in Bali. Most people rave about Ubud for its yoga retreats, or Seminyak for its nightlife, but Sanur? It was a bit of an afterthought for me. However, with my priorities set firmly on diving (because, let’s face it, I was there for the underwater world), I ended up booking accommodation here, thinking it was just a convenient spot to base ourselves for a couple of days.

This little coastal town had more charm than I could’ve imagined. Sanur has that laid-back, local vibe (with plenty of Australian toursits). The perfect place to enjoy some local cuisine, get a feel for the culture, and yes, dive into some of the best scuba experiences Bali has to offer.

The Arrival: Bali Traffic and Sweet Corner Guest House

After a two-hour journey from Uluwatu (which was an adventure in itself—more on that in a minute), we arrived in Sanur. One of the first things that hits you about Bali is the traffic. It’s like a game of Tetris with motorcycles, cars, and the occasional stray chicken or dog, all weaving in and out of lanes. You’ll be sitting in traffic for ages, wondering if the vehicle in front of you is going to move at any point. Spoiler alert: it won’t. But somehow, everyone gets where they need to go, and it’s all part of the experience.

Eventually, we arrived at Sweet Corner Guest House, our home for the next few days. When I booked this place, I wasn’t expecting much. I figured it was a budget guest house for a reason. But to my surprise, Sweet Corner was a total gem. Tucked away from the main road, it’s a small, family-run spot with only about 10 rooms. Our room was spacious, clean, and had an en-suite bathroom that was far fancier than I expected. It was the perfect blend of simplicity and comfort. The best part? The air conditioning. After a long drive, the cool breeze was nothing short of heavenly. It was like stepping into a mini icebox, and I was all for it.

Sanur Beachfront

First Taste of Bali: Nasi Goreng and Mi Goreng

By the time we arrived, it was already evening, and we were absolutely starving. We decided to wander out and find a local restaurant, not really knowing what we were in for. Bali knows how to serve food. We stumbled upon a small family-run warung (local eatery) that served nasi goreng (fried rice) and mie goreng (fried noodles). Now, if you’re not eating either of these while in Bali, you’re missing out.

We both ordered a nasi goreng, which came loaded with vegetables, chicken, and a fried egg on top. It was spicy, savoury, and absolutely delicious. I swear, I could’ve eaten that dish every day and never gotten bored. The best part? The bill came to a whopping £3. THREE POUNDS. I’ve spent more on a sandwich in London. The food in Bali is not just tasty; it’s super affordable.

After dinner, we decided to take a quick stroll through the local market, where we picked up some fruit and snacks for later. The market was bustling, with locals selling everything from fresh fruit to handmade jewellery. It was the perfect place to soak in the atmosphere of Bali. We didn’t buy much (I wasn’t exactly in the market for a wooden giraffe sculpture), but it was a great way to end the evening before heading back to our guest house for a well-deserved rest.

One of the many rice dishes

Day 2: Scuba Diving with Neptune Scuba School

The next morning, we woke up early—well, early for a holiday, anyway. After all, we were in Bali, and there was no time to waste. The day’s agenda? Scuba diving. We were picked up by a minibus from Neptune Scuba School, a recommended dive shop in the area. Everyone was friendly, efficient, and ready to get us in the water.

I’m a certified diver, so I was excited to get back into the water and explore the underwater world around Bali. My friend was new to diving. He was new to diving, so he had some pool lessons while I joined the certified tour group. This meant I had a bit of time to kill before the dive, which I used to prepare myself, and stroke the local shop cat (which I was assured was rabies free).

Before the boat journey to the dive sights, I was offered some small pink, unlabelled tablets from the dive guide. He said they were anti-seasick tablets, and while a kind gesture, I declined the offer. This may have been mistrusting of me, but I wasn't ready to play the game of 'Hyoscine anti-sickness tablets or MDMA'...especially as I would only findout underwater. We were taken to the dive site by boat, the journey was beautiful but bumpy in itself. The boat bobbed on the water, with the sun shining down and the cool breeze making it feel like the perfect day for an adventure. The sea was crystal clear, and I could already see a few fish darting past the boat. I was getting pumped.

Dive 1: Crystal Bay and the Elusive Mola Mola

Our first dive was at Crystal Bay, a famous dive site known for its clear waters and the chance to spot the elusive Mola Mola (Ocean Sunfish). I had high expectations, with our dive guide having seen three the day prior. The Mola Mola is one of those creatures that divers dream about—massive, bizarre-looking, and totally unique. It’s one of those animals that you can’t help but feel lucky to see.

We descended into the water, and the visibility was fantastic. The coral was vibrant, and schools of fish swam around us like something out of a nature documentary. But despite our best efforts, the Mola Mola was nowhere to be found. We spent about 50 minutes swimming around, hoping for a glimpse of this elusive giant, but no luck.

That’s the thing with diving, though—it’s all about patience. Sometimes, you get lucky, and sometimes, you don’t. Still, the dive was incredible, and I was more than happy to enjoy the beauty of the underwater world, even if I didn’t spot the majestic sunfish.

Dive 2: Manta Point and the Majestic Mantas

After a short break on the boat, we headed to our second dive site—Manta Point. This site is famous for its population of manta rays, and I was beyond excited. Diving with manta rays had long been on my bucket list. Manta rays are graceful, majestic creatures that glide through the water like underwater birds. They’re one of those animals that make you feel like you’ve entered another world.

I didn't have to wait long. As we descended, I couldn’t believe my eyes—there, swimming majestically around us, were the manta rays. They were massive, with huge wingspans the length of a person. It was like something out of a dream. We spent about 30 minutes in the water, just watching these magnificent creatures glide past us, completely unfazed by our presence. It was, without a doubt, one of the most magical experiences I’ve ever had underwater.

After the Dives: Reflections and a Well-Deserved Lunch

After the dives, we were whisked back to the dive shop, where we were treated to a lovely lunch. Now, if you’ve never dived before, you might not know that a good post-dive meal is a sacred thing. We were served a delicious plate of nasi campur (mixed rice with various sides), which was as satisfying as a cold pint after a long day at the pub. The rice was fluffy, the chicken was tender, and the sambal (spicy chili paste) was just the right level of fiery to make you feel alive again. It was the perfect fuel after a morning of underwater adventures.

We sat down with the other divers, swapping stories about our dives. Some had seen turtles, others had spotted schools of fish, and a few even managed to get a glimpse of the elusive Mola Mola. I may not have seen the sunfish, but I was happy with my manta ray encounter. There’s something about seeing these majestic creatures glide effortlessly through the water that makes you feel like you’re in a nature documentary, but without the BBC budget.

Exploring Sanur: A Walk Through the Town

After lunch, we decided to explore Sanur a bit. Now, I don’t know if it’s because I was still buzzing from the dive or if it’s just the laid-back vibe of Sanur, but everything felt...chilled. There’s no rushing in Sanur. It’s not like Seminyak, where everyone’s trying to outdo each other with their Instagram photos or Ubud, where people are all about their chakras. Sanur is a place where you can wander around without feeling like you’re missing out on something. It’s got this quiet charm, with its beachfront promenades, local markets, and the occasional stray dog giving you a side-eye.

We walked along the beach, past cafes and little warungs, and stopped for a quick coconut drink. I’m not sure if it was the heat or the fact that coconuts are just inherently refreshing, but it was like a little slice of heaven. That being said, it the coconut needs to be cold - no one likes a wam coconut. The beach in Sanur is also known for its calm waters, which makes it perfect for paddleboarding and a gentle swim. It’s not as wild as the beaches in Uluwatu or Seminyak, but that’s what makes it so lovely. There’s a certain peace to it.

The Evening: Sunset and Seafood by the Beach

By the time evening rolled around, we were ready to kick back and relax. Sanur is known for its sunsets, and we were determined to catch one. We found a spot at a beachside restaurant and ordered some seafood (because, let’s face it, when in Bali, you have to try the seafood). The restaurant was right on the beach, so we had the perfect view of the sun dipping below the horizon.

As the sun set, we sipped on cocktails and ate our seafood feast, which included grilled fish, calamari, and lobster mac & cheese. Good food, good company, and a sunset that made us feel like we were in a tropical dream.

Dinner at the Tree Bar, Sanur (Lobster Mac & Cheese)

The Unexpected Wildlife Encounter: Bali’s Animal Residents

Just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, we had a bit of an unexpected encounter. As we were walking back to our guesthouse, we stumbled upon a small crowd gathered around something on the side of the beach. Naturally, we were curious (because who doesn’t want to know what’s going on in a foreign country, especially when there’s a crowd involved?). We approached cautiously, and that’s when we saw it: baby turtles hatching from the sand, so small, yet so determaned to reach the waters edge. A few of the turtles were moving the wrong direction (towards the restraunts), so we alerted a local police officer who called the turtle rescue sanctury who came by to rescue the little ones.

Wrapping Up: Why Sanur is Worth the Visit

As we made our way back to the guesthouse that night, I couldn’t help but feel a little bit in love with Sanur. It’s got this calm, easygoing vibe that makes you want to stick around longer than planned. It’s not as flashy as Ubud or as hectic as Seminyak, but that’s exactly what makes it special. It’s one of the underdogs of Bali. You know, the place that doesn’t shout about how great it is, but once you’re there, you’re think, "why didn’t I come here sooner?”

If you’re looking for a place to unwind, eat amazing food, and experience some top-notch diving, Sanur is the place to be. It’s a hidden gem that doesn’t get as much attention as other parts of Bali, but that’s what makes it so appealing. And who knows? You might even get lucky and spot a manta ray..... or just eat your body weight in nasi goreng. Either way, you’ll have a great time.