Exploring the Um El Faroud Tanker Wreck: A Dive Into History (and Nitrogen Narcosis)
- Ross
- Dec 24, 2024
- 6 min read
Ah, Malta. Picture-perfect beaches, stunning historical sites, and vibrant nightlife—just a few reasons why it’s a top destination for young adventurers like us. But if you're anything like me, you're also searching for that something extra. The kind of experience that gets your heart racing and your pulse a little bit faster than the average poolside pina colada. That’s exactly what I was looking for when I booked a dive trip to the infamous Um El Faroud tanker wreck. Trust me, this isn’t your average tourist activity.
The Tragic Tale of the Um El Faroud
The Um El Faroud was no ordinary ship. Built in 1974 as a Libyan-owned gas tanker, this 144-meter long vessel was designed to transport gas across the Mediterranean. It was big, it was powerful, and it spent most of its years sailing under the radar. But in 1995, things took a drastic turn.
The story goes like this: On the 4th of September 1995, the Um El Faroud was being prepared for a repair in the Maltese port of Marsaxlokk when disaster struck. An explosion rocked the ship, killing 9 crew members and injuring several others. The blast was devastating—so powerful that it caused severe structural damage, and the ship sank in shallow waters just off the coast.
Now, you might be wondering what happened after the explosion. The ship didn’t just vanish, though. It was salvaged from the scene in 1999, and after being completely stripped of all its valuable materials, it was purposefully scuttled to become a dive site in 1999.
Today, the Um El Faroud lies on its starboard side at a depth of around 36 meters, providing divers with an exceptional opportunity to explore its massive wreckage.
The wreck is split in two, and while much of it remains intact, years of sitting on the seabed have given it an eerie, haunting quality. The ship’s remains stretch to an impressive 115 meters in length.
But enough of the history lesson – let’s get to the fun stuff. Here’s how the dive went down.
Arrival at the Dive Site: Sun, Sea, and... Fried Egg Jellyfish?
We arrived at the dive site with the sun blazing overhead. Malta, in October, doesn’t really do cold. We're talking a comfy 32°C (89°F) temperature, which made the whole experience feel like I was about to enter some underwater paradise. There we were, loading up our gear on the boat, joking about what we were about to see. No one really prepared me for how massive this wreck was going to feel once we were out there.
As we donned our gear and shuffled awkwardly down to the pier. Before we made our entry, we were told to look out for fried egg jellyfish. They’re harmless, but as the name would suggest, they look just like a fried egg floating around the water.
Once we were geared up and ready, we took a giant stride into the water. No time to waste. My heart raced as the cool saltwater enveloped me, and I took a deep breath through my regulator. We swam around for a bit on the surface to conserve our air.
The Descent: From Sunshine to Shipwreck
At about 300 meters from the coast, our dive guide, Sarah, signaled that it was time to begin the descent. You know, as much as we all love the feeling of floating on the surface with the sun on our faces, nothing compares to the thrill of heading below the waves to explore a wreck this size.
We descended slowly, passing through the top layers of water where the sunlight still filtered down, illuminating the movement of tiny fish darting around us. But as we got deeper, the sun started to fade, and the water grew darker. At 20 meters, the visibility was still clear, but things started to look eerily different.
And then, there it was. A dark shadow in the distance. Slowly, it came into focus. The Um El Faroud.
It’s hard to describe the feeling of seeing something so colossal and haunting in the murky depths. This wreck wasn’t like anything I’d ever seen before. The sheer size of it was overwhelming. We were now diving into the bowels of history.
Exploring the Wreck: A Maze Beneath the Sea
Our guide led us to the stern of the ship, and from there, we swam around the outer deck. It was like we were floating through the ruins of a lost civilization. The eerie silence of the wreck, punctuated only by the faint sound of our breathing, gave it a surreal, almost dreamlike atmosphere. I had a feeling we were stepping into the heart of a ghost ship—one that had been sitting on the seabed for nearly three decades.
The wreck’s interior was a maze of passages, stairways, and doorways that we swam through like explorers in a submerged fortress. One moment we were in a narrow hallway, the next we were looking out into the wide open water from a shattered window. We needed torches to navigate the pitch-black interiors—without them, it was just a whole lot of darkness.
It didn’t take long before we came upon the wreck’s split in the middle. This happened when the ship’s hull couldn’t handle the pressure from sitting on the seabed for years. The split was huge, and we swam under it, dipping down to nearly 40 meters.
And that’s when it hit me. I felt this strange sense of dizziness—like I was floating, but not in the good way. My vision started to blur, and my brain was moving a little too slowly for my liking. The culprit? Nitrogen narcosis.
What Is Nitrogen Narcosis?
Nitrogen narcosis, often called “the martini effect” (because it’s like being tipsy from a few too many), is something that happens when you dive to greater depths. Essentially, at depths of 30 meters or more, nitrogen gas, which is normally harmless at the surface, starts to have a narcotic effect on your brain. It’s like being underwater and getting a bit... well, drunk.
Sounds fun, right? Not so much when you're at 40 meters underwater and realise your brain isn’t firing on all cylinders. It can cause confusion, euphoria, and even hallucinations. The key is to recognize it quickly, which is what I did. I signaled to Sarah and the group that I was feeling a bit off and Sarah guided us upward a few meters. And like that, the feeling was gone. In an instant, everything snapped back to normal. Nitrogen narcosis doesn’t last long, but it’s not something you want to mess around with—especially when you’re swimming through the wreck of a tanker at nearly 5 times the surface pressure.
The Rest of the Dive: A Thrill Seekers’ Playground
With nitrogen narcosis behind me (thankfully), we continued exploring the wreck. By now, there were a few other divers floating around, their techy gadgets adding a sense of sci-fi to the whole scene. Some were using non-rebreathers (yes, just like James Bond) and others were gliding by on underwater scooters. It was clear that this site attracts some serious diving enthusiasts. But don’t let that intimidate you. As long as you’re an advanced recreational diver, this is a completely accessible dive. Just be mindful of those technical divers zooming by, looking like they’re on a secret mission.
The shipwreck itself was incredible. The damage, the history, the size—it all combined to make this a dive that I’ll never forget. And I’m not the only one. As we resurfaced, I could tell everyone else in the group was equally blown away by the experience.
Post-Dive Vibes: Coffee and Croissants at the Café
After such an intense dive, we needed to cool off, so we took a surface interval at a nearby café. We sat sipping on strong coffee and nibbling on buttery croissants (because honestly, what’s a dive without a snack?)There’s no better way to top off an unforgettable dive than by sitting with fellow divers, chatting about the wreck and how we all got a little too close to the edge of nitrogen narcosis.
Final Thoughts: Why You Need to Dive the Um El Faroud
So, why should you dive the Um El Faroud? Simple. If you’re a qualified diver who’s looking for a challenge, an adrenaline rush, and a dive site that has both a thrilling story and a visual impact, then this wreck is an absolute must-see. The wreck is easy to access, the dive is suitable for advanced divers (but no less than that—seriously), and the surrounding waters of Malta are just a bonus.
It's an experience that’ll stick with you forever.
"Now, go on. Book that dive. Just remember: feeling tipsy is something you should save for the bar, not the depths."
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