A Vienna Winter Adventure: Snow, Schnitzels, and Spies
- Ross
- Jan 11
- 5 min read
Vienna in winter is something else. It’s like stepping into a snow-globe, one of those excessively picturesque ones where everything is covered in snow, and there’s a gentle dusting on every rooftop, streetlamp, and the occasional passerby’s beanie. The day I arrived, the snow was falling thick and fast.
First Impressions: Walking Through a Winter Wonderland
The train ride from Bratislava to Vienna was smooth, and upon disembarking, I was thick snowfall. The snow was everywhere, and I had absolutely no idea where I was going. But don’t worry, what else is google maps for?! A good 30-minute walk later, after a fair bit of squinting at street signs and trying not to slip on icy patches, I arrived at my hostel: Wombats City Hostel.
The Wombats City Hostel is one of those places where you check in, and for a brief moment, you wonder whether you've accidentally stumbled into a cool bar instead of a hostel. It’s modern, it’s trendy, and yes, it has its own bar—something that’s rather crucial when you're trying to meet fellow travellers.
The vibe was friendly and warm (both metaphorically and literally, as the heating was on full blast). My dorm was shared with three other people, for different nationalities.
New Friends and Glühwein Adventures
Soon enough, I met two American travellers in my dorm. We instantly clicked. So, we set out to explore the city.
We wandered through the streets, stopping for a piping hot pizza in a cozy Italian restaurant—because, why not? When in Vienna, you can’t just eat schnitzels and bratwurst all the time. Sometimes, the call for cheese and carbs is too strong.
Then, we made our way to the City Hall Square Christmas Market. The market was huge, stretching out before us like something from a holiday movie set. We grabbed some Glühwein (because nothing says "I’m on holiday" like mulled wine) and strolled between stalls selling everything from gingerbread hearts to knitted scarves. And yes, before you ask, we definitely got into the holiday spirit—who wouldn't after a few glasses of Glühwein?
On our walk back to the hostel, we decided to check out some bars along the way. In Vienna there’s no shortage of places to grab a drink. The evening culminated at the hostel bar, which was packed with travellers from all over the globe. Among the eclectic mix of people I met, there was an older traveller who was heading to Salzburg to witness the Krampus celebrations (Think of an anti-santa claus who is said to visit the children on the naughty list). People dressed as Krampus run down the streets terrorising the locals and tourists alike.
Who Is Krampus?
The dark, mischievous cousin of Santa Claus who only visits naughty children. Imagine a half-goat, half-demon creature with horns and a penchant for scaring the living daylights out of children who didn’t finish their Brussels sprouts. The legend of Krampus hails from the Alpine regions, and he’s known for punishing those who’ve been bad during the Christmas season. So, if you’ve ever wondered what happens to those who ignore the warnings of their parents and skip out on their chores, well, Krampus is the answer. Santa has his list of "nice" children, and Krampus? He’s got a list of "naughty" ones, and it's a lot more... terrifying.
I also met another traveller that night—a newly qualified doctor from Australia. He was in Europe, soaking up the sights before heading back home to start his medical career. We had a laugh talking into the night, enjoying a few pints.
Belvedere Palace: The Magic of Snow-Covered Gardens
The next day, my new friends and I decided to make our way to Belvedere Palace. Now, calling this place a "palace" doesn’t really do it justice. It’s like calling a Ferrari just a "car"—you know it’s much more than that. The palace sits high above the city, offering stunning views, but it’s the grounds that really take your breath away. Imagine a garden so large that you could easily lose yourself in it, but also, probably, spend the next decade trying to cut the lawn (I’d love to see the guy with the mower who’s tasked with that job).
After wandering through the snow-covered gardens and exploring the palace (which houses the famous painting “The Kiss” by Gustav Klimt), we headed to a small Christmas market at the back of the palace. We grabbed more mulled wine (because why not?) and some chicken schnitzels, which, were absolutely divine. If there’s one thing you need to eat while in Vienna, it’s schnitzel.
Free Tours, Croissants, and the Spy Game
In the afternoon, we joined a free walking tour of Vienna, which was one of the best ways to see the city. The guide took us around the main areas, pointing out historical landmarks, royal palaces, and statues of men with suspiciously perfect mustaches. Speaking of which, Vienna is practically bursting with palaces. You walk down a street, and boom! Another palace. It was honestly getting to the point where I started to wonder whether the buildings were actually special anymore. It’s like you see so many, they all start blending together.
And did you know croissants are actually from Vienna, not France? That’s right. These buttery, flaky pastries originated in Vienna, though the French definitely took the recipe and ran with it. The story goes that they were created to celebrate the defeat of the Ottoman Empire—because nothing says “victory” like a buttery pastry. Who knew?
Now, speaking of quirky facts, I also learned that Vienna is home to more spies than any other city. Espionage is legal in Austria—provided the spy is not spying on the Austrian government or any national interests. So if you ever fancied a life of intrigue and secret missions, Vienna might just be the place to start.
Mozart and More Snow
That evening, we went to a Mozart tribute concert at the Schonbrunn Palace. I’m not going to lie—I’m not typically one for orchestras, but when in Vienna, right? And yes: a few glasses of prosecco certainly helped me get into the mood. The concert was held in a grand hall, and even if you’re not into classical music, the experience was surreal.
The night ended with a snowstorm and more bar hopping. The streets were packed, the bars spilling out into the snowy streets like an impromptu winter festival, with christmas music echoing down the streets. People were laughing, dancing, and enjoying the atmosphere, and I couldn't help but think, “This is exactly why I travel.”
A Farewell to Vienna
As my time in Vienna came to an end, I found myself feeling a bit sad to be leaving. The friendships I had made in the hostel were unexpected, yet meaningful, and I knew that I’d stay in touch with them for years to come. So if you’re looking for a destination that offers a perfect mix of history, culture, snow, food, and a lot of mulled wine, Vienna should be at the top of your list. Just remember to pack your warm socks. And make sure you're on Santa's good-list. Just in case Krampus decides to pay a visit.
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